Day 4: Haro to Burgos

Well today has been a tough day. On mikes scale of tough days this ranks up there so i think i am going to have to start a new scale for me!

Last night finished a little later than we had hoped as it is difficult to find food before about 8.30pm. After venturing out earlier in the evening, and in honour of Haros status as rioja capital of spain, we undertook a thorough warmdown in the bar before ending the night with a lovely bit of steak.

This morning started at 5.30 with a wake up call. Aware that the day was likely to hit the high 30 degs, we decided an early start was a good idea. After some nice pastries for brekkie an hour into the ride we set off for belerado across the final leg of our 200km route through basque/rioja country which turned out to be a long arrid road.

Belerado was the point at which we joined the camino frances (the most popular route) - and instantly saw a fair few pilgrims. Being on the bikes we do tend to take alternate routes which allow us to cycle side by side together, have a natter and some peace and quiet.

To avoid the walkers route we took a passage over some hills in what can only be described as a sauna. Loaded up with water we carried on for what seemed forever before reaching a number of summits and the corresponding immense view (you get a bit fed up saying that sometimes!). We managed to find a village for lunch, the only issue was a lack of food, so we had to make do with some cake from a bread van that turned up.

We left the village with water replenished for another butal heat sapping climb. Having climbed for the best part of two hours we were looking forward to the inevitable down hill and the pick up in speed (and corresponding lack of peddling) which would take us to our final destination some 30km away. However, the wind seemed to have other ideas, being so strong that if you did not pedal you were blown to a stop.

There was one stop before burgos that had accommodation however the official hostels preference walkers over cylists. Whilst not a problem on the previous route the frances is much busier and we did not fancy being turned away so made the trip to burgos.

This was into the wind for the majority of what turned out to be another 20km of cycling in a straight line on roasting hot tarmac. It included a stretch on the most horrendous A road we have seen yet. Needless to say we were overjoyed to arrive here and find a small but nice hotel that took cycling pilgrims.

Mike has broken one of his cleats, could probably do with some new break pads and i have managed to lose a rear light so before we depart tomorrow we shall be finding a bike shop to buy a few supplies. I also managed to cause a minor RTA due to a cyclist falling off his bike as he slowed down to check i was ok (i am having a few issues with my calves and hamstrings and was having a stretch). He does however get knight in shining armour point.

In addition to the major aim of this trip there are a few sub goals. One being avoiding sun burn and although i expected to need my own personal outrider spraying me constantly in sun cream i have to date avoided it. This is i feel a minor miracle after the heat of today. Mike however has some incredible farmer tan lines - and it is only day three!!!

The second, and slightly less successful attempt if you go by the highlights on my pig tails is to avoid turning ginger. Although i keep assuring mike that there is nothing wrong with strawberry blonde.

I have also regained the lead in the post box game after some great early spots.

James quote of the day

"For the sun rises with scorching heat and withers the plant; its blossom falls and its beauty is destroyed."

Whilst we can confirm that the heat scorches, there was an odd beauty in the land we cycled through today.