Day 8: Leon

Ah, a rest day. Very welcome if my body is anything to go by. We continue with the running repairs, I even volunteered to have an ice bath last night - it must be bad!

After a bit of a siesta last night we ventured out to sample the local nightlife. This resulted in two great finds. The first, a gin bar, where tonic with your gin appeared optional. The second, a small bar in a back alley that did the most amazing food. We could not pick a winner between my scollops and mikes lamb.

We also found a laundrette, which means i am sat here in clean, fresh clothes. For the moment at least.

The breakfast this morning was lovely. We stuck out like a sore thumb amoung the continental european contingent as we wolfed down as much as we could while they ate their bread and jam.

Leon is a lovely place. Very quaint and warm with small streets and plazas down back alleys providing a great and welcoming atmosphere. When the sun is down and the wind up it does however get a little chilly, not helpful when all your warm clothes are in for the wash!

This morning we TFT'd it up with camera around neck we toddled (or hobbled in my case) off round the local churches and monuments. Mike was starting to worry that he was yet to see a monument covered in scaffolding (a regular tradition which includes not seeing cathedrals in paris, vienna, sienna and quito). Thankfully the main cathedral saved the day and normal service for mikes trips has been resumed.

The churches and historic buildings, both in leon and across spain, are a hodge-podge of styles as rather than adding an extension in keeping with the structure a modern block is merely added on. This can make for some beautiful, and less successful, buildings.

Lunch was a homemade bocadillios with ham and cheese from a local butchers. I have never seen so many hams and salamis in one town in my life!

We shall be returning to our local church tonight for a pilgrims mass that is held daily.

Tomorrow is going to be an early start as we start the final push through the mountains to santiago. With a good wind (behind us) and my body holding together (in other words a miracle) we hope to travel the final 319km in five days. Thankfully with the high peaks comes some 30kms of free miles as we roll down the hill the other side.

Other information that mike failed to mention yesterday, he once again lost the post box game. To draw level on this trip he will need to win every day going forward.

After yesterdays near miss in the pilgrim peleton i have another dobber of a bruise to add to my collection.

James quote of the day.

"Now listen, you who say, “Today or tomorrow we will go to this or that city, spend a year there, carry on business and make money.” Why, you do not even know what will happen tomorrow. What is your life? You are a mist that appears for a little while and then vanishes."

We have learnt that you can spend a lot of time on this trip thinking about tomorrow and forget to live in today and take pride in yesterday.

Mike has also discovered that in Santiago we get to head butt a saint! Apparently it is supposed to instil some artistic talent! Well from a low starting point for the pair of us (aside from sewing and fly tying) anything is a bonus!

Day 7: Terradillos to Leon

Ah the final day before rest day....

Injury Count:

Sarah - tight calves, tight hamstrings, aching thighs, swollen hand from a bite, sore achillies and a tender posterior

Mike - slightly achy legs

I know this may seem like a minor miracle to many, however my bad knee, shoulder, ankles etc have been largely fine, which to be fair is incredible. I packed enough pain killers for me falling apart while Sarah giggled at me, however it turns out she is the one having a tough time of it.

Of course we did this as a challenge together and we will finish it together. The mobile massage parlour was out in force once more today ensuring we reached the destination of Leon where we will take a day off to eat and sleep, as well as treat ourselves to washing our clothes.

The day was another grind across the flat lands of central spain, meaning more wheat fields and more head wind, although today this had dropped considerably.

We managed a good pace all morning, and the Pilgrim Peleton even managed to gain a pace setter in the form of Marco, a crazy italian doing 140km a day with full gear! Nutter! Sarah did nearly come a cropper when we tried a rolling photo and we were not paying attention. The near miss only contributed another good bruise on the battered legs.

Lunch came and went, and we only had 18km to Leon. We polished these off on a rather risky A road, and found a great hotel to rest up in. While the hostals have been great on this trip, it is nice to have our own room so we can relax and only suffer each others snoring.

Leon is an old roman city so we will have an explore tomorrow. It is now time to wash the toxic clothing, dip sarah in a vat of arnica, eat and sleep.

Oh and btw we are over half way now will approx 300km left to go :-) however what we have done so far is only the warm up for the mountains of Galacia on the road to Santiago.

James quote of the day

"But when you ask, you must believe and not doubt, because the one who doubts is like a wave of the sea, blown and tossed by the wind"

After a few weak moments from sarah over the last 12 hours we can at least say that perserverance and not doubt won the day.

Day 6: Extra

Day 6: Castrojeriz to Terradillos

Well today started with a 6.30am wake up call and probably 7am get up as both our bodies and minds struggled to get going.

The day comprised a 75km ride up a slow incline with a few bigger hills at the end. Or at least that was the hope.

The morning started with a good pace and the obligitory stop after 5km to stretch off my calves and hamstrings. We pottered on for about 20km before finding a little oasis in the heat and had a lovely brekkie of fresh bread, marmalade and juice.

The aim was to get to Carrion de los Condes for lunch, one of the larger towns on todays route. The good pace continued with the camino by our side. A long walk for the other pilgrims in hot conditions which was probably not aided by us 'zooming' past. Aware of the energising boost an 'hola' or 'buen camino' i took it upon myself to spread some cheer and said hello to everyone we passed.

One of our main navigational tools are the rivers running through the valleys, making sure we are on the right side or knowing the gradient we will be travelling. However, the majority of rivers that we have passed have been dry, with the odd damp patch showing where water used to run (definitely no trout inthem!). The hot summer has taken its toll with whole fields of sunflowers being lost due to the lack of water. As a result it was a bit of a surprise when we happened upon the canal (see piccy) that dates back to the early 1800s.

Having eaten out for lunch since arriving we decided to have a home made bocadillo with some ham, cheese and fresh bread - lovely.

After lunch we had just under half the day to go. We had to leave the main pilgrims route and do a bit of a detour, picking it back up about 10km from the end.

We followed the main road and discovered our old friend the head wind. No matter what direction we turned the wind kept coming at us. Mike, not being content with being the lead out man for the pilgrim pelaton is also the team doctor. Periodically stopping to release some knot in my calf/ankle/thigh. It is safe to say the these javelin honed legs dont appear to be made for long distance eventing - something any of my coaches could have told you!!

With a bit of guts, grunting, and sheer bloody mindedness on my part we managed to make it to the hostel for the night. The hostal is on the site of an old hostal where the Knights Templar used to protect the pilgrims on route.

Today we have also seen the maybe 'less authentic' approach to the camino. Organised cycle tours run along sections of the camino, stopping in 5* hotels along the way as your bags are carried from place to place. Whatever you are looking for out here i am not sure that that is the most effective way of going about it. Each to their own i suppose....

Mikes hope of reducing my lead on the post box game failed miserably. As did his attempts to ask for some ice, with the hostess passing him cotton for my legs instead (its kind of like my post box/beer he tells me). In addition, after five days my skin appears to have finally given up and tanned! Although as can be seen, they still dont compare to mike!!

We have also picked up three stamps today, and some nice ones at that. Hopefully some food and rest will help us through tomorrow. We also have the knowledge thay we shall be over half way tomorrow and with the planned end being Leon, have a rest day on the horizon.

James quote of the day.

"Be patient, then, brothers and sisters, until the Lord’s coming. See how the farmer waits for the land to yield its valuable crop, patiently waiting for the autumn and spring rains."

They are definitely waiting...

Day 5: Burgos to Castrojeriz

After yesterdays mammoth effort our bodies were very tired this morning. Sarah has developed some cracking bruises on some muscle knots (see pic).

We had a massive lie in for us until 8am, and then went and picked up some supplies and bike bits that we needed.

This meant that we did not leave Burgos until 11am, however our bodies were thankful that because of yeterday we only had 50km to do. Leaving Burgos we stopped for the customary stretch of Sarah's legs, and got on with the days task.

This was in the form of a 6km climb and a 4km one with various shorter ones in between into the same headwind we finished with yesterday. We had no luck finding a lunch spot during the first part of the day, however when we rejoined the main pilgrim route, we found a beautiful village with all the food we needed. I have been dreaming of a pizza for three days so finding a bar that served them was a welcome sight.

After the late lunch we only had 8km to do, so pootled on down to the village via a ruined monastary.

I have seen more developed villages in Africa, however the welcome was warm and for today the Pilgrim Peleton has done enough, its time for a rest, food, beer, and wine (maybe not in that order). We are now 500km from santiago, just have to keep turning those pedals.

Sarah is currently 4-2 up in the post box game after i got 'nil point' today so I am going to have to get my act together or push her off her bike.

Quote from James for the day:

"Believers in humble circumstances ought to take pride in their high position."

Well there is nothing quite so humbling as looking at some beautiful ruins and being pooped on by a pigeon is there. Bloody birds.

Day 4: Haro to Burgos

Well today has been a tough day. On mikes scale of tough days this ranks up there so i think i am going to have to start a new scale for me!

Last night finished a little later than we had hoped as it is difficult to find food before about 8.30pm. After venturing out earlier in the evening, and in honour of Haros status as rioja capital of spain, we undertook a thorough warmdown in the bar before ending the night with a lovely bit of steak.

This morning started at 5.30 with a wake up call. Aware that the day was likely to hit the high 30 degs, we decided an early start was a good idea. After some nice pastries for brekkie an hour into the ride we set off for belerado across the final leg of our 200km route through basque/rioja country which turned out to be a long arrid road.

Belerado was the point at which we joined the camino frances (the most popular route) - and instantly saw a fair few pilgrims. Being on the bikes we do tend to take alternate routes which allow us to cycle side by side together, have a natter and some peace and quiet.

To avoid the walkers route we took a passage over some hills in what can only be described as a sauna. Loaded up with water we carried on for what seemed forever before reaching a number of summits and the corresponding immense view (you get a bit fed up saying that sometimes!). We managed to find a village for lunch, the only issue was a lack of food, so we had to make do with some cake from a bread van that turned up.

We left the village with water replenished for another butal heat sapping climb. Having climbed for the best part of two hours we were looking forward to the inevitable down hill and the pick up in speed (and corresponding lack of peddling) which would take us to our final destination some 30km away. However, the wind seemed to have other ideas, being so strong that if you did not pedal you were blown to a stop.

There was one stop before burgos that had accommodation however the official hostels preference walkers over cylists. Whilst not a problem on the previous route the frances is much busier and we did not fancy being turned away so made the trip to burgos.

This was into the wind for the majority of what turned out to be another 20km of cycling in a straight line on roasting hot tarmac. It included a stretch on the most horrendous A road we have seen yet. Needless to say we were overjoyed to arrive here and find a small but nice hotel that took cycling pilgrims.

Mike has broken one of his cleats, could probably do with some new break pads and i have managed to lose a rear light so before we depart tomorrow we shall be finding a bike shop to buy a few supplies. I also managed to cause a minor RTA due to a cyclist falling off his bike as he slowed down to check i was ok (i am having a few issues with my calves and hamstrings and was having a stretch). He does however get knight in shining armour point.

In addition to the major aim of this trip there are a few sub goals. One being avoiding sun burn and although i expected to need my own personal outrider spraying me constantly in sun cream i have to date avoided it. This is i feel a minor miracle after the heat of today. Mike however has some incredible farmer tan lines - and it is only day three!!!

The second, and slightly less successful attempt if you go by the highlights on my pig tails is to avoid turning ginger. Although i keep assuring mike that there is nothing wrong with strawberry blonde.

I have also regained the lead in the post box game after some great early spots.

James quote of the day

"For the sun rises with scorching heat and withers the plant; its blossom falls and its beauty is destroyed."

Whilst we can confirm that the heat scorches, there was an odd beauty in the land we cycled through today.

Day 3: Salvatierra to Haro

Well after yesterdays efforts it was a mere 75km today to almost complete the "tunnel route" camino. The aim was to get to haro so tomorrow we could join the main pilgrims route.

The pilgrim peleton started a bit like a 1982 austin allegro, with lots of whinging and grumbling from the female contingent. I think Sarah and the saddle were having a minor domestic.

Anyway, after a few km, a cake, some water and a hug, I am pleased to report the wife started speaking to me again! We made good, downhill, progress to Vitoria, where we stopped for breakfast. This was in the form of the biggest croissant and pain au chocolat you have seen.

After this the adventure really began, this was not due to a massive hill or some bad weather. Unfortunately we were at the mercy of the spanish road building network. Many roads were dead ends and many more incomplete.

In the end we did find a lovely village for lunch and were safe in the knowledge it was only 30km to the end of the day.

The route from here was again a pain. The tracks of the true Camino were too rough for our bikes, which meant finding roads in our general direction, easy you may think, but included more dead ends and carrying them over fences and down ditches. Still the scenery was stunning, made all the better by discovering vineyards around Haro.

Our moods were made all the better by discovering that Haro is the capital of Rioja country!!

I think today topped 32 deg and we both over heated on numerous occasions. I think tomorrow we will start earlier to miss the heat!

Quote from james for the day:

"Everyone should be quick to listen, slow to speak and slow to become angry"

Particularly for Sarah at the start of the day and me with a cafe owner getting grumpy about our bikes.

Sarah is also rather pleased with herself as she has drawn level in the post box game with a last ditch call right by the hostel.

Day two: Urnieta to Salvatierra (with the odd mole hill on the way...)

Yesterdays challenge was finding our legs. Todays, keeping them turning.

We set off at 6.30am this morning in the dark (it doesnt get light until around 7.15) and the rain. We then carried on cycling in the rain for the next few hours. It was at least pleasantly warm.

Todays big challenge was the 5km climb out of Zegama, an ascent of 600m. Although we had been climbing since we left that morning. After much gritting of teeth and (for me a few extra stops) we both made it to the top of the climb summoning the power of st wiggo and froome. At the summit we were greeted by a bar which did the most immense sandwiches. It was a most welcome stop after the hill we just conquered.

The first 40km of the day took nearly 6 and a half hours. The next 10km flew by in about 30 minutes as we wizzed down the "hill".

Although hoping to do c.70km today, due to roads being changed and the small issue of the anticipated end point not having any accommodation we have done nearer to 100km.

I am pleased to report that spikey satnav is working as well as ever and we are completing our obligitory u-turns and that we are up to three stamps in our passports. Less pleasing is me being behind in the post box game, although i am told that my chances would be improved if i stopped pointing and shouting the spanish for beer (cerveza) instead of Correros.

James quote of the day.

"let perserverance finish its work so that you may be mature and complete, not lacking in anything"

Mature may be a bit much for us two but you never know!

Day 1: Planes, Trains & the Hemming Peleton

Well we are here.

Nearly werent.

But lets just say someone may have inherited his fathers ability to guess flight/ferry times.

Hardest part today was getting into the bike bags after they were wrapped up!! Set up the bikes in Bordeaux, and caught the train to Irun.

Once in Irun we got the standard supplies and then picked up our pilgrim passports and customary shells.

We were then ready to go we set off for Urnieta, only 20km but its a start :-) Found some lovely hills however the Pilgrim Peleton did gather its first 2 fans with people wishing us well out their house window.

Time now for a shower, food, and bed.

James quote of the day:

"consider it pure joy, my brothers and sisters, whenever you face trials of many kinds, because you know the testing of your faith produces perseverance"

Amen brother those hills are definitely testing!

The adventure is nearly here

Sarah and I are off to spain to cycle the camino pilgrimage route tomorrow.

2 weeks.

500 miles

Hot hot spain!