It was interesting to attend the vespers, although they obviously were not au fait with monty python. We were provided with the original latin and an english translation, although without you could have deciphered a large amount of the text.
After the chilly start to yesterday i had bought some leggings to ensure i stayed warm in the mountains. As it happens, the 5km climb up over 350m that started from the hostel door was a sufficient warm up.
From the profile we had there then looked to be a steady roll up 10m over the next few km to reach the highest point of the camino. What the profile didnt show was the 100m drop between these two points. It took a bit to find our climbing legs again. As can be seen however, there were some good views from my customary morning stretch.
It was at this point we started to gain our free miles. We knew it would be steep but were greeted at the top by a warning sign for cyclists that the following 15km decent was a little dangerous. The decent started rather like oblivion at alton towers, as we cycled up to the down we couldnt see anything until we dropped off the edge.
With both brakes going we accelerated down the mountain side, stopping every so often when you smelt rubber burning. It was proving rather fortuitous that mike had bought new break pads a few days ago.
It was during the climb, and sunsequent decent, that you see the friction that can be caused between the cyclist and walkers (mountain bikers who follow the walkers route). As they dinged their bells up the hill and then as they bounced down it, expecting the walkers to move for them, while we were on the road a metre from the path keeping out of the way. I have to say, if i were a walker i would have stayed where i was and had a few words.
We decended to Ponferrada, the location of a giant castle used by the knights templar to protect pilgrims. Leaving here we had the final 20km to lunch. A trip that we expected to be slightly up hill as we started to hit vino country again. Oh how wrong were we...
As many of you may be aware, when i get hungry i can get a tad grouchy. Only a tad mind. Well, add into that 10km of inclines and by the time we reached Villafranca i was not in the best of moods (Mike - Understatement of the day!!!). It is a good job that we kiss and make up at the start of every day...!
It was at this point that the return of the killer sun started. Leaving Villafranca we were barely able to sit on our seats they were that warm. The road, initially black tarmac, begain slowly toasting our feet. As we continued up this road (we had 18km on it) we were thankful for the periodic white tarmac and shade provided by the bumpy pilgrims path that was occassionally alongside us (we think the temperature pushed 30degs). Pity the poor walkers who had three peaks to scale as we circled round on the road.
We had planned to stop at an albergue in Ruitelan that has been recommended by guidebooks and fellow pilgrims alike. With life, and water, draining out of us both we pushed through to the albergue. Never a good sign, a lady lent out of the window and said something utterly incomprehensible, pointing to a sign outside saying 'closed today'. Having picked that town as it gave us a few kms run in to tomorrows monster climb, we had to get on our bikes again and carry on up the road, finding a small hostel about 10 mins later. Not nice for us, but worse for some walkers we knew aiming for that albergue.
An annoying end to what has in hindsight been a day for digging in deep. The evening will be spent in Herrerias sitting on the verander with a g&t trying to cool down!
James quote of the day.
"Out of the same mouth come praise and cursing."
As mike was informed on a few occassions today, i need a few kms, although we always get past it, usually with some food!!
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