Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Day 12: Portomarin to Rabadiso

Well last night ended with a very nice meal with a view of the river and cool breeze running through the restaurant. A welcome change from the heat of the day! The spanish do very nice chips, like mums when she used to have a deep fat fryer. At the end of the day, when you are craving salt, they really hit the spot!

The intention was for a light day today, having spent the last few hammering out the km in the sun. Today was a mere 55km and going by the profile we had one incline of 400m or so and then a few bumps from there on in.

We have instead spent the day playing Jack and Gill in our own nursery rhyme.

Last nights albergue was a purpose built jobbie with c.120 spaces in one dorm - there ear plugs and night mask came in useful. It was amazing how many people had failed to pack the night before when intending on leaving early, and although no lights or noise were allowed until 7am this was blown at 6am. As in keeping with the remainder of this trip, by a group of french people (who were also having their luggage transported!).

We decended out of Portomarin in the fog and instantly hit a slope. You know its going to be a bit of a hill when there is a sleeper lane sign above you. I have lost count of the number of these signs we saw today. So we climbed, and climbed and climbed a bit more. Our legs, not having recovered from the last few days, got tighter as we went up. And yes, Mike is finally feeling some pain in his knee. Thankfully between us we still have one good set of legs!!

The early morning went by relatively quickly. It was about 15km in that we hit the main road we were following for the remainder of the day, with the camino criss-crossing us from time to time.

Although the profile for this section looked flat, we find a bit of small print in our guide that the route crosses a number of river valleys that may not be represented in the profile. Replace may not with have not!

We climbed a long hot road for lunch, a nice sandwich and coke to recover from the morning, knowing 12km and our day was done.

Lunch was spent trying to avoid the day trippers that have arrived to walk the last 100km, many of whom have day packs as suitcases are taxied (and sometimes the walker too!). You can identify the pilgrims who have made a longer trip as they typically meet the followin criteria:

1) pilgrim hobble
2) tan lines, more on the left than the right
3) big backpack.

After lunch we left the town and started gaining the benefit of our free miles and corresponding cramp from braking. Once again, we were lulled into a false sense of security and spent the remainder of the trip cursing the slow lane signs we saw. Being on a main road means that there is less opportunity to stop and so ironically, i preferred yesterdays mountainous climb.

On arriving at our albergue, a pretty little place by the river (which i am hoping to keep mike away from) we were asked the distance we had travelled to see if we were entitled to a room (with the day packers already let in).

Tomorrow is arrival day at Santiago, all being well. It is an odd feeling for tomorrow to be the last day cycling (although depending on our bikes and bodies we may be heading off on another small adventure). Tonight is for savouring the tranquilty, and the usual food (including the discovery of raspberry cheesecake and white chocolate magnums and orio milka), beer and bed.

Oh, and mike wants me to mention there may have been a tad of grumpiness today.

James quote of the day.

"Blessed is the one who perseveres under trial because, having stood the test, that person will receive the crown of life that the Lord has promised to those who love him."

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